A hint of marzipan on the nose underscores the palate's flavors of persimmon, ripe green apple, plum skin and preserved lemon in this bright, well-spiced Champagne, with a lively mousse. Lightly chalky on the clean-cut, lingering finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Disgorged January 2023. Drink now. 3,475 cases imported.

The NV Brut Majeur shows lovely balance in an approachable, up-front style well-suited to near-term drinking. Clean, mineral notes add a sense of proportion on the fresh, vibrant finish. The blend is 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier, 80% of which is from the 2004 vintage, while the rest of the wine is composed of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay reserve wines. Disgorged January, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014.

Ayala, based in Aÿ in the heart of Champagne, has been transformed since Bollinger bought it in 2005 and this nonvintage proves it. This is a balanced blend of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier. The result is crisp while not too dry, and therefore drinkable as an apéritif. Apple and bright citrus combine with green plums to give a fruity wine that is also structured. The cellarmaster continues to reduce the dosage (sugar) so there is a crisp, tight aftertaste.