Starts out rich, with a touch of glycerol in the texture, before civilized tannins take over on the finish. Offers plum, cherry, earth, tobacco and iron notes that prevail, with a firm grip of tannins on the finish. Best from 2026 through 2043.

A dusty blend of cedary spice, mentholated herbs, rose petals and sour cherry wafts up from the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino. It's round and supple in feel, with floral-laced red and black fruits complemented by a subtle tinge of sweet spice. This leaves a bitter twang of sour berries, while a burst of residual acidity adds a cheek-puckering freshness, and a gentle tug of tannin slowly recedes. The 2018 has improved each time I've tasted it in the last five months, and it now shows the ruggedness of Northwestern Montalcino Sangiovese, but in a wonderfully balanced way.

Robust and powerful from the start, the Castiglion del Bosco 2018 Brunello di Montalcino shows broad shoulders and ample brawn. But at the end of the day, the wine's concentration remains on the medium to medium-rich side of the spectrum. It stays firmly within the boundaries of Sangiovese. Dark fruit and blackcurrant segue to savory notes of toasted spice, black olive, earth and rusty nail.