This opens with balsamic aromas of camphor and crushed mint that mingle with ripe black-skinned fruit and coconut. Full-bodied and already rather accessible, the smooth, concentrated palate offers dried cherry, licorice and espresso alongside enveloping, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2023-2029.

The 2017 Brunello de Montalcino is dark and powerful, with wave after wave of balsamic spices, wild herbs and crushed black cherries emanating from the glass. The depth of texture here is something to behold, weighty and fleshy in feel, yet perfectly in balance, as brisk acids enliven the gobs of red and black fruits within. The tannins take a backseat as nuances of plum, clove, licorice and cocoa appear under an air of purple-tinged flowers. The 2017 tapers off remarkably long and potent, with a structure that will carry it for years to come. It's a total success for such a difficult vintage.